Determining Your Power Grip Size
Hands come in different sizes and shapes. When choosing a tool for the job picking a tool that fits your hand makes the work more efficient. A handle too large or too small will cause early fatigue because of over or under gripping. How do you decide what is the right size tool for you?
The first step is to determine the size of your hand. According to: Champney 1979: Muller Borer1981: NASA 1978; The 50th percentile hand length for male is 7.5”, female 7.2”. Grip diameter 1.9” male, 1.7” female
To measure your hand size measure the distance from your wrist crease to the tip of your middle finger with the palm open. (see image below) You will use this figure to determine your grip size. Hand 2
Take 20% of your hand size to determine your grip diameter. For example if your hand size is 7.5” multiply it by .20 for your grip size. (7.5”X.20=1.5”) so your grip diameter is 1.5”.
HandYou can check this number by making a circle with your index and thumb and measuring the distance across the circle. It should be close to the figure you calculated for your grip diameter.
Once you know your grip diameter you can calculate your grip size. Simply multiply your grip diameter by 3.14 (aka Pi) for your grip size. In the example above grip diameter 1.5”X3.14=4.7”grip size
Once you know your grip diameter and grip size you can select tools that fit your hand and will be more efficient to use. For a power grip like hammering NIOSH recommends tool handle diameters between 1.25” – 2”. Use your grip diameter and find the tool handle closest to your size. Handles can be built up with tape or foam padding to increase their diameter.
The Basics on Restoring Carburetor Performance
The Carter AFB carburetor was introduced in 1957, and the same basic design lives on to this day as the Edelbrock manufactured variant. For any mechanical device to remain in production for nearly 60 years is testimony to fine design work and functionality. It also means that countless examples of these carbs can be found—many in need of basic refurbishment. While a carburetor is not particularly difficult to rebuild, there are many performance enthusiasts who shy away at the thought of disassembling and rebuilding, often choosing to simply buy a replacement instead.
Rebuilding a carb is actually a fairly quick and easy process that requires little more than a few basic tools, a cleaner, and a carburetor kit. Before the advent of fuel injection in performance vehicles, rebuilding the carb was a routine procedure, performed in garages and backyards across the country. These days, few of us have a carbureted vehicle serving as daily transportation, but a vast majority of hot rods, race cars, and weekend toys still use carbs. As a simple mechanical device, a carb is reliable, relatively cheap, and long lasting. For the most part there is little to wear out, but dirt, debris, and deposits can take a toll, even rendering a carb inoperative. A carb kit will include the typical wear components, as well as new gaskets and seals. We had a 750-cfm #6212S carb off a jet boat application, along with a Walker 15271A kit. This is how they went together.
Our #6212 Carter AFB is a 750-cfm unit for a marine application. The carb has been on duty since the early '70s and will be good for decades to come with a simple rebuild.
The AFB design is ingeniously simple, being constructed from just two major castings—the main body and the air horn. Step one anytime an AFB is opened is to remove the metering rod assemblies.
To separate the carb, remove all of the external linkages, then the screws retaining the air horn. Sometimes the air horn gasket can be stuck. To break it loose, use penetrating oil and tap the periphery with a hammer. Avoid prying on the air horn.
There are very few parts in the air horn assembly. We find the needle and seats, floats, and fuel inlet—that's about it.
As can be seen here, the main body carries the majority of the AFB's parts, including the jets. Clockwise from lower left we have the choke dashpot, right primary booster, secondary boosters, velocity valve, left primary booster, accelerator pump pistons and spring, accelerator pump discharge nozzles and check needle, and the idle mixture screws.
How to Buy a Carb Kit
Finding the correct carb rebuild kit is very important to ensure that your carburetor runs correctly, the first time. Spending a little time now researching your carburetor will help you get the correct kit.
Common carburetor confusion:
Not All Rochester 4bbls are Quadrajets- Rochester also produced a 4-Jet Carburetor up till 1966. The 4-Jet is completely different than any Quadrajet.
Rochester or Carter Quadrajet- Both Rochester Products and Carter produced the Quadrajet carburetor. Most Quadrajet carburetors were produced by Rochester Products but back in the late 1960's, Rochester Products could not produce enough Quadrajet carburetors to keep up with General Motors demand. So GM went to Carter and had them also make Quadrajet carburetors for GM. It doesn't matter if the Quadrajet was produced by Rochester or Carter, they are the same carburetor and use the exact same parts. If you need parts for a Carter Quadrajet, look under the Rochester Quadrajet category.
"I have a Quadrajet, send me a rebuild kit." - We carry over 25 different kits just for the Quadrajet model carburetor, there is NO universal kit. To have your carb run correctly, you must start with the correct kit. This also applies to most any other carburetor brand (Carter, Holley, Motorcraft)
1- Carburetor number-
Using your carburetor number is the BEST way to get the proper carb kit. 99.9% of all carburetors have an identification number located on the carburetor. Some numbers are stamped directly into the carburetor, others used a tag attached to one of the carb body screws. Many carburetors can have multiple numbers (casting numbers, plant ID and date codes). If you need help finding the location of your carb number, visit our Carburetor Tech Info Section carburetor tech info section for information and illustrations to help you find the location of your carburetor number. When you have located the correct carburetor number, enter it in our search box (located on top left of every page) and your correct kit will be displayed, along with other carburetor parts that we know will fit your specific carb number.
Note1: Some carburetors were stamped for marine applications and have a different carb number format that may contain a dash. Sometimes it helps to search with and without the dash and sometimes it can help to only search for a partial number as some carburetor numbers could have a "A" or "B" suffix, so searching for partial numbers may lead you to additional information.
Note2: Early Rochester carburetors may have the first 2 digits (usually "70") omitted from the factory ID stamping. I don't know why they did this, but its not uncommon with early Quadrajets.
Note3: GM Holden Ltd is an Australian automobile that used Rochester Quadrajet 4bbl carburetors. Unfortunately we do not have any reference materials with Holden information, so your Holden carb number will show up as not found on our website. You will have to use method #3 to ID your correct kit.
2- Carburetor application-
This is how many of our competitors will sell you a rebuild kit. For example, purchasing a carburetor kit for a 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass with a 350 4bbl MAY of worked OK back in 1975, but what are the chances after 40+ years, that the car still has the original carburetor? Unless your the original owner there is no way to be sure. Original carbs were commonly exchanged for "rebuilt" units or swapped with a carb from a junk yard when a mechanic couldn't fix the problem. There is a lot of information on the internet to help you determine a vehicles original carburetor number. Don’t try and use the original number to order your kit, if you have a different number carburetor on the engine.
3- No carb number found-
This is a difficult, but not impossible situation. Some carburetors never had a carb number, others had their original carburetor number ground off and restamped with a re-builders number and many used a metal tag that was discarded during a prior rebuild. If you can't find the carburetor number it will take a bit more work to pick out a kit. We recommend that you disassemble your carburetor and match up your old gaskets with the detailed photos on our website of the gaskets included in our rebuild kits. (All our kits have clear detailed pictures showing all gaskets used in that kit). First identify the manufacturer of the carburetor (ie Rochester, Holley, Carter, Ford/Motorcraft) then determine what carb model it is (ie Quadrajet or 4-Jet). Second we recommended that you start with the bowl cover/air horn gasket and identify which kits match that gasket, then match up your old throttle body gasket. It is also a good idea to visually compare the needle and seat, accelerator pump components and other small gaskets and seals. Some carbs are easy, for example the Rochester B, BC, BV 1bbl carburetors only have 2 kits available. The identifying difference is the accelerator pump, one carb uses a flat stem pump plunger and the other a round stem.
The ultimate guide to dirt bike brake and clutch levers
Dirt bike clutch and brake levers are amongst the most-used components on our bikes, given they're what allow us to really control the motorcycle.
It's why it's important these two parts are always working as they should, and why you should have the right ones on your motorbike.
In the ultimate guide, we cover the ins and outs of dirt bike brake and clutch levers.
Dirt bike clutch and brake levers, explained:
Dirt bike levers are the two 'triggers' on your handlebars that control your front brake and clutch - the front brake being on the right, and the clutch being on the left. When these are pulled, the brake or clutch is activated.
What type of levers are available?
There are several different types of brake and clutch levers available, and they're all at different price points. The most popular is a standard replacement for the OEM part - these are generally replicate the same bend on the standard lever, and they're super affordable.
The second type of lever is an unbreakable clutch and brake lever, which are designed to flex backwards, and sometimes up and down depending on the model, significantly reducing the chances of the lever breaking in the event of a fall. You can buy these individually or in a lever set or combo.
The third common type of lever is a complete perch, which are generally designed with a unique bend and easy clutch adjustment. These type of levers, such as the Works Connection Elite perch or Pro Taper Pro Perch Assembly, allow for quick adjustment, increased adjustment, along with a greater feel on the lever.
Do levers come in different shapes?
Dirt bike lever do come in different shapes, although this is generally more so in the higher-end options available such as a complete assembly. Most other lever options will have a standardized shape unless it's a specifically shorter or longer option.
Are levers one-size-fits-all across all bikes?
No, brake and clutch levers aren't a one-size-fits-all across all motocross and enduro bikes. Some bike may potentially share the same design, or if it's the same brand of bike, the levers will likely be identical across model, however they're generally not able to fit different manufacturers. For example, the same clutch lever will likely fit across KTM, Husqvarna and current GasGas big-bike models, however they won't fit on a Kawasaki KX450 or a Honda CRF450R, which also use a hydraulic clutch. The same goes in that a clutch or brake lever for a Yamaha won't fit on a Suzuki.
What's the right type of lever for me?
There are a couple of things to consider when it comes to choosing which lever is right for you, the first being your budget. If you're looking to keep things affordable, having a spare standard lever in your toolbox would be ideal.
However, if you want to prevent the chance of breaking lever while out on an off-road ride or during moto race, then a set of unbreakable levers are definitely for you.
If you're looking for even more feel and adjustment in your levers, then you should consider the pro clutch and brake perch options available.
When should I replace my dirt bike levers?
Any time you brake a lever, or notice any damage such as cracking, then we strongly advise replacing it before you go for another ride. Broken levers can be extremely dangerous if you continue to ride with them, as sharp edges could penetrate you in the event of a crash.
What is a carburetor replacement?
A carburetor replacement will typically cost anywhere from $500 to $2000, sometimes more or less depending on the make and model of the car, and whether you’re installing a performance carburetor or a fuel efficiency one.By comparison, rebuilding a carburetor might cost only $200 to $500. But this isn’t always an option, and a rebuilt carburetor usually won’t be as efficient as a brand new aftermarket one. Either way, you’ll want to discuss these two options with your mechanic.The carburetor is an engine component mounted on the intake manifold that atomizes fuel and mixes it with air. This fuel mixture is then internally combusted in your engine’s cylinders, producing power. So it goes without saying your carburetor is an important car part.Over time, the carburetor will need some adjustments to maintain the proper idling performance and to keep the fuel mixture correct. But as the carburetor gets older, these adjustments essentially stop functioning as intended, and you’ll end up faced with one of two options: replace the carburetor, or have it rebuilt.A carburetor hasn’t been installed on a new car sold in America since the early 1990s; carburetors started getting phased out in the ’80s, and fully went extinct with the advent of modern fuel injector systems. So if you’re having carburetor trouble, your car is older and needs special care!
How to perform a carburetor replacement
Your mechanic will go through the following steps during your carburetor replacement:
Disconnect the car’s battery
Remove the air filter
Remove the old carburetor
Install the new carburetor
Install a new fuel filter
Install a new air filter
Reconnect the car battery
Inspect the engine and the carburetor for leaks and see if any adjustments are necessary
road test the car to make sure everything is running smoothly
