It is noticeable that the wonderful gold embroidery with sequins and beads in the prêt-à-porter collection was created in India using Indian materials. Strass "Swarovski" I practically did not notice, they were mainly replaced by cheap counterparts. But this embroidery has not lost its charm. I would say that the main principle of creating embroidered designs in high fashion is simplicity and beauty. The less time spent on design and the more interesting it looks, the better.
Attention is paid not so much to the complex execution of embroidery as to the idea. Dogs, cats, cherries and citrus fruits - despite the seeming simplicity of execution, the very idea of embroidery is so attractive that it makes almost the same impression as complex embroideries.
Christian Dior
There have been many big debuts this Paris Fashion Week, but perhaps the most anticipated was Maria Grazia Chiuri's first show as creative director of Dior. For the first time, a woman became the head of a great French house - the reason was and remains widely discussed , especially after the clothes presented. Quilted fencing vests and jackets with straps, tutu skirts made of tulle and corsets became the main elements of the collection. The simplicity of the styles was balanced by the abundance of embroideries. Their motifs seemed childish, almost pop: hearts, daggers, flowers, stars, bees, ladybugs.
Balenciaga
In the second collection for Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia thought about fetishism in fashion, that is, about the psychology of hunting for must-have wardrobe items (which, for example, Vetements sweatshirts with "Titanic" have become ). We saw the same floral dresses, tote bags, puffy vests, latex raincoats and tight stretch over the knee boots. Blazers and jackets with very wide shoulders were familiar, creating the silhouette of the butler Lurch from the Addams family.
Saint Laurent
For the sake of Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello has suspended work on his own brand. The designer was appointed in April of this year. For his debut collection, Vaccarello turned to the 1980s and the heritage of the house: the model opened the show in a leather version of a dress with a neckline and puffy shoulders from the Yves Saint Laurent collection of the early 1980s. Custom Caps embroidery
Alexander McQueen
This season, designer Sarah Burton honoured the memory of Alexander McQueen, who passed away six years ago. The theme of the spring-summer 2017 show was the national costumes of the Shetland Islands. Most of the items are embroidered with complex floral patterns, tied with leather belts and corsets. Many unexpected combinations of organza, tulle, which seemed to have scattered wild flowers, and punk influences so beloved by McQueen himself.
Chloe
The new Chloé collection is a story about life in the city. It looks like Clare Waight Keller is continuing the conversation about the modern woman's uniform. Almost the entire collection is made in neutral colors, which make up a versatile wardrobe. Loose silhouettes and sporty elements speak of comfort. In addition to versatility, the collection is not without romance: a lot of translucent skirts and dresses with pleats.
Sonia Rykiel
"Your clothes - your rules" - so said the "queen of knitwear" Sonia Rykiel . The spring-summer 2017 show Sonia Rykiel is a tribute to the founder, a farewell to the legendary red-haired Frenchwoman who passed away just over a month ago. Models in iconic black jumpers with bright lettering lined up. The result was the phrase "Rykiel forever".
Stella McCartney
The Stella McCartney show set the mood for all subsequent shows: in the final, the models danced and clapped their hands. So Stella showed that her clothes are for life, comfortable and not constraining movements, but at the same time feminine. Almost all things in the spring-summer 2017 collection are in voluminous silhouettes. T-shirt slogans like "Girls Thanks" and "No Fur, No Leather" reflect Stella McCartney's enduring vision.
Chanel
This direct to garment season, Chanel built a huge server room on the catwalk, storage for power supplies and wires. So Lagerfeld outlined the theme of the collection - intimate technology (literally - "personal technology"). The show was opened by a model in a VR helmet, futuristic shoes and an iconic tweed suit. This was not followed by high manufacturability, but on the contrary, references were read immediately to several decades of the twentieth century, in particular to the 1980s.
Fenty x Puma
The second collection of the brand Puma and Rihanna turned out to be even more eccentric than the debut, but quite in line with the spirit and image of the modern pop icon. References to 18th-century French culture and the image of Marie Antoinette mixed with the sporty aesthetic of street fashion: elements of a corset and miles of lace combined with sweatpants and platform sneakers. All things are in pale pink tones.
Dries Van Noten
The Dries Van Noten collection can compete for the title of the most monochrome of anything the designer has shown in the last couple of years. Monochromatic looks (cream, black, navy blue) let the focus be on luxurious embroidery and trim. There are many references to historical costumes in the outfits - from uniforms with galloons to dresses and blouses with high collars in the Victorian style that has long taken root on the catwalks.